Rolex Submariner, Stainless Steel Wristwatch, Ref. 16610, Circa ’90s Rolex

The Rolex Submariner is considered the definitive tool watch. With rugged good looks and a function-forward design, every Submariner reference made since Rolex introduced its premier dive watch in the ‘50s (when the concept of dive watches was in its infancy) has helped cement its place as one of the most beloved watch designs of all time. The Submariner simultaneously has an air of quality and the panache only Rolex can offer, but with an attitude that says you’d rather get in the water than take selfies on the boat.

With the staggering number of years the Submariner has been in production, it’s unsurprising that the model has birthed a ton of different references. With each subsequent version, Rolex has honed and adjusted the Submariner recipe, and while all watch collectors have their preference, the “neo-vintage” era of Subs produced between the late ‘80s and late ‘90s hit a particular sweet spot for those that want the charm, attitude, and overall look of a classic Sub, but with modern durability, some small visual updates, and functionality like a date complication.
This particular Submariner is a ref. 16610 that was produced around 1989. This reference was the successor to ref. 168000 Submariner and features a caliber 3135 movement and was upgraded to use a less corrosive steel for the case material. The watch itself is in great vintage condition and while its case has been previously polished, the lugs remain thick and even and have some of the original bevels visible. The dial is in perfect condition, with no chips, marks, or scratches to speak of. The original tritium lume is present in both dial and hands and has gently aged to a nice off-white color. The watch comes on a flip-lock 93150 bracelet with 501B endlinks with 11 full links and diver’s extension, and it shows only light stretch. This is the perfect “neo-vintage” Sub to use as a daily driver diver..