Rolex Submariner, Stainless Steel Wristwatch, Ref. 5512, Circa 1967 Rolex

Rolex Submariner ref. 5512, Circa 1967 – Most serious watch fans will agree that the Rolex Submariner not only defined the concept of the tool watch, but helped tool watches transition from specialized and essential pieces of kit designed to meet the demands of divers, pilots, soldiers, scientists, and motorsports pros into the style staples they’ve become. Starting with the extremely early Submariner worn by Sean Connery in the first Bond film ever, Dr. No, every iteration of Rolex’s beloved diver has been equally at home exploring the depths as it is peeking out from under the cuff of a tux, kicking it by the pool, or worn with jeans and a tee shirt. It’s a watch with a rare combination of serious horological history, a useful and handsome design, and nearly unmatched flexibility. In many ways, the Submariner is the ultimate expression of attainable luxury in watch form.

Though there have been many different Submariner references produced since the model’s introduction in the early 1950s, the reference 5512 (produced between the late ‘50s and the late-’70s) is what many consider the quintessential Submariner. The 5512 is a watch with perfectly balanced proportions and featured only the things one really needs in a great dive watch, which did not include a date complication. It was also the reference of Steve McQueen’s daily-worn Sub – which speaks volumes about the 5512’s rugged-meets-luxury sensibility.
This particular ref. 5512 example was made around 1967 and features a desirable “4-line” matte finish dial. Rolex opted to use chronometer certified (COSC) movements in the ref. 5512 (aside from a few very early examples of the reference), which prompted them to include two lines of additional text reading “superlative chronometer, officially certified” on the 5512’s dial. Rolex made a nearly identical Sub (the ref. 5513) with an overlapping production run that was powered by a non-COSC movement, giving customers their choice between movements. This particular 5512 is also a “meters first” dial, a rare variation that has the meters before feet in the line of text showing the watch’s depth rating, which boosts its collectibility considerably.

This early Sub is in great vintage condition with a case that has been polished in the past, but remains thick with its beveled edges very visible. The “meters first” dial is in absolutely beautiful condition and free of blemishes, and the original tritium lume on both its dial and hands has aged elegantly to a warm, creamy yellow color. The watch retains its original “Long 5” bezel insert, which has aged to a lovely dark brown color that accentuates the lume’s patina wonderfully. The watch comes on a rare Rolex stretch-rivet Swiss 6636 bracelet with 80 endlinks, dated to 1966, and has 11 full links with no stretch. This is the ideal 5512 for the person that loves the kind of subtle details that collectors go crazy for, but wants an extremely wearable example of the definitive vintage Sub that doesn’t need to spend its life hidden in a safe.